Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife. Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples—in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few have been given as gifts).
2016 Fattoria di Cinciano Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy: Retail $30. Very Responsible Bottle (430g; 15.1oz). Under cork. 100% Sangiovese. I am not sure how, but I acquired this bottle at VinItaly back in 2018. Did I buy it? Was it given to me? For those of you that have been to VinItaly, you know that this is a question that is nearly impossible to answer, so I will not try. What I do know is that this is a pretty fantastic wine, with a beautiful nose of red and blackberry fruit, plenty of forrest floor, and a smidge of vanilla. Whoa. The palate is certainly more austere with more of a dried fruit vibe with dusty tannins, but still plenty of acidity and character. Yes, I think it is time to drink this wine, but those tannins, which are quite present, suggest more cellar aging might work out. Now? Excellent. 91 Points.
2014 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir Vigneron Select, Sta Rita Hills, CA: Retail $60. Heavy Bottle (623g; 21.9oz). I purchased a few of these Vigneron Select bottles in the years prior to Clos Pepe shutting its doors, but this is the first that I have popped, I think. As some have noted, even though this was supposed to represent the pinnacle of the house style (which was a reserved, “Burgundian” style), it comes in at a healthy 14.8% ABV. But. It doesn’t come off as hot at all. In fact, this is absolutely gorgeous. Bright red cherry fruit, plenty of fragrant cedar, a floral note, and just a whole lot of verve. I have lamented the demise of Clos Pepe countless times in this space, and this is yet another bottle that underscores my sentiments. That Clos Pepe magic seems to have disappeared once Wes Hagen left the property. Outstanding. 95 Points.
2023 Flowers Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $55. Restaurant $55. Very Heavy Bottle (717g; 25.3oz). Under DIAM10. I have had several vintages of this wine now (and when I ordered this at our neighborhood restaurant, I did not realize I had six bottles of this at home), and I remain a huge fan. Classic Chard nose of lemon curd, honey blossom, and subtle touches of vanilla and oak (100% aged in French oak, 18% new). The palate is simply a delight with rich fruit, an engaging tartness, and layer upon layer of complexity. I had always been a fan of the brand, even after the sale and the controversy, because the quality of the wine never seemed to waver. That is certainly the case here. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2022 Penfolds Chardonnay Max’s, Adelaide Hills, Mount Lofty Ranges, South Australia: Retail $25. Responsible Bottle (550g; 19.4oz). Under screw cap. When I saw this on clearance for about eight bucks, I bought the three remaining bottles. I guess I would classify Penfold’s as the “Mondavi” of Australia, but that is just a rough comparison. This wine is bright, tart, fruity, and, well, a joy. Sure, it’s not the most complex Chardonnay I have had (even this week), but it is fresh, clean, and exceedingly easy to drink. Twenty-five bucks? Sure. Seven flipping dollars? Sign. Me. Up. Excellent. 90 Points.
NV Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Essentiel Extra Brut, Champagne, France: Retail $65. Extremely Heavy Bottle (859g; 30.2oz). Based on 2016 vintage. 45% Pinot Noir, 36% Pinot Meunier, 19% Chardonnay. 23% reserve wine. Disgorged 2022. 6g/l dosage. We had been picking up a few bottles of this here and there from our local H-E-B when it would go on sale for around $45. Thus, when I saw this on WineSlash for $40, I leapt (actually, I clicked, but you get the idea). This is based on an older vintage than what we have been enjoying, but it is no less spectacular; great fruit, plenty of brioche, and zingy tartness. What else could you possibly want? Other than more wineries in Champagne being more open (like Piper) on their labels? Yeah, not much. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2021 Domaine Amélie & Charles Sparr Riesling Schoenenbourg Revelation, Alsace Grand Cru, France: Retail $35. Responsible Bottle (). Under cork. As some of you know, I studied (and played basketball) in Strasbourg for a year and I consider it my “homeland” in France (but Paris is really my “home”). So when I saw this on Wine Spies for $29, I leapt. It comes from perhaps Alsace’s premier vineyard, the Schœnbourg; the wife comes from a winemaking family and the husband from Alsatian winemaking roayalty. But. The. Wine. Whoa. And maybe a holy cow. The reviews CellarTracker are glowing, but I fear they are a bit understated; this is a gorgeous wine. Past straw and well on its way to yellow in color, with Golden Delicious apple, a touch of freshly zested lemon rind, evidence of honeysuckle blossom, and a verve that is looking to kick butt and take names. The palate is simply amazing. Loaded with fruit and acidity, balanced impeccably, and possessing a lengthy finish, this is perhaps close to the perfect Riesling from Alsace. Yes, it was initially too cold, but as it warmed in my hand, I recalled my time in Alsace. First as a student and then as a cycling tour guide, I was taken back to a land that I truly love and where I long to return. Does that border on hyperbole? No. It is definitely over the top, but this is an utterly fantastic wine. And I have five more bottles. Whoa. But I already said that. Outstanding. 95 Points.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Like most married men with children, I guess, I am not right all that often (just ask my wife or kids), so when I go out on a flyer and buy a wine on a hunch that it will be pretty good and said wine exceeds even my lofty expectations, well, I celebrate. I don’t jump up and down or scream from the highest mountaintop (which is a highway overpass here in Houston), but I do take a moment or two to give myself a little bit of time relish my little victory (even though it likely goes unnoticed by all in my immediate vicinity). That was the case this week with the 2021 Domaine Amélie & Charles Sparr Riesling Schoenenbourg, this week’s Wine of the Week.
What was your Wine of the Week?
the drunken cyclist 