Over the course of a week, I taste a bunch of wine, usually with friends, and almost always with my wife. Here are some of the wines we tasted over the past few weeks. These are wines that were not sent as samples—in most cases, I actually paid for these wines (although a few have been given as gifts).
2020 The Calling Chardonnay Sullivan Vineyard Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, CA: Retail $55. Stupidly Heavy Bottle (961g; 33.8oz). Under cork. 100% Chardonnay. Made by James MacPhail for The Calling. I was hankering a bit of Chard, and I saw this in the wine fridge. I acquired these wines for a big tasting, and a few bottles were left over. Sure, it is on the big side of Chardonnay, even falling into the “traditional California Chardonnay” category. But that’s OK. There is a reason that this style is “traditional” and that is because a sheet-ton was sold over the years. Tropical and citrus abound in the glass with plenty of butter and a definite oak presence (17 months, 100% French, 25% new). This does harken back to another time, and I completely dig it. And all of that is fine with me; this is a solid effort. Excellent. 91 Points.
2023 Flowers Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, CA: Retail $55. Restaurant $55. Very Heavy Bottle (717g; 25.3oz). Under DIAM10. I have had several vintages of this wine now (and when I ordered this at our neighborhood restaurant, I did not realize I had six bottles of this at home), and I remain a huge fan. Classic Chard nose of lemon curd, honey blossom, and subtle touches of vanilla and oak (100% aged in French oak, 18% new). The palate is simply a delight with rich fruit, an engaging tartness, and layer upon layer of complexity. I had always been a fan of the brand, even after the sale and the controversy, because the quality of the wine never seemed to waver. That is certainly the case here. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2017 Lucas & Lewellen Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, CA: Retail $22. Responsible Bottle (547g; 19.2oz). Under screwcap. 24% neutral oak, 76% stainless. This was the second bottle that I received as a sample, way back in 2020. I liked the first one (90 Points), and it seems as though this one is holding on quite well, five and a half years later. It has gained a bit of color, well into “yellow” and on its way to golden with a classic lemon curd and some white flower. The palate is subtle, but again, along that classic Chardonnay taste profile: good fruit, subtle oak and vanilla, and a unifying acidity that really defines this wine. I might have to take this up a notch. Excellent. 91 Points.
NV Locations CA-4, California: Retail $20. Extremely Heavy Bottle (811g; 28.6oz). Under cork. Petite Sarah, Barbera, Tempranillo, Syrah, and Grenache. For some reason, I received two bottles of this wine as samples waaaay back in 2016. I liked the first bottle (90 Points), and now? Almost a decade later? This wine is still doing well, thank you very much. Sure, the fruit has faded lightly and stewed somewhat, but this is still a legit offering. OK, Dave Phinney is a big operative in the region and might stoke some strong opinions, but this is pretty good stuff. Very Good. 89 Points.
2016 Muret-Gaston Chardonnay Weinbau Vineyard, Red Mountain, WA: Retail $50. Responsible Bottle (593g; 20.9oz). Under cork. I received this as a gift from the owners, Amy and Kyle, for helping them try to navigate the Texas distribution system. I am fairly certain that I was no help at all, but the Johnsons are just solid folk. I also think that I may have waited a bit too long on this wine. The nose is compelling with oodles of lemon curd, a floral note (acacia? honeysuckle?), and just a touch of oak. The palate is delightful, with a lovely tartness, a decided mineral aspect, and a salinity on the backend that screams for food. What’s missing? Well, the fruit has seemingly faded. There are still hints of lemon and Bosc pear, but it seems this wine might be on a bit of a down slope. Still? This is a solid effort, even close to a decade out. Excellent. 92 Points.
2013 Onward Wines Pinot Noir, Hawkeye Ranch, Redwood Valley, CA: Retail $40. Heavy Bottle (635g; 22.3oz). I visited with Faith Armstrong of Onward Wines several years ago, and I was impressed with all of her wines. I was particularly drawn to her Pinot Noirs, however, and I ended up with a couple extra bottles of this Hawkeye Ranch. Fairly light in color and in demeanor, but with oodles of rich, ripe cherry on the nose along with a touch of vanilla. The palate is on the light side, for sure, but there is still a solid fruit presence and plenty of zingy tartness that characterizes the wine. This certainly has an Old World feel to it, as multiple layers are even more perceptible due to the relatively tame fruit. This is a wonderful wine. Excellent. 91 Points.
WINE OF THE WEEK: If I were only going by the numbers, the Flowers Chardonnay would be this week’s Wine of the Week, but, as it turns out, I didn’t take a photo of the wine, and usually, that is disqualifying. I also factor in the personal aspect of things, and few people in the wine world mean more to me than the Johnsons at Muret-Gaston. As I have mentioned several times, they were among the first to recognize this tiny little blog. Therefore, the 2016 Muret-Gaston Chardonnay Weinbau Vineyard is this week’s top wine.
What was your Wine of the Week?
the drunken cyclist 