It is time for another edition of “Random Samples”–I occasionally get samples from marketing agencies and/or producers. These can often be grouped together into some sort of overarching theme: Muret-Gaston is French for Old Friends (not really, but it should be), The Rise of Australian Wine Beyond Shiraz, Some Wines from Victoria, If It Doesn’t Sparkle, It Doesn’t Matter.
Other times, I get just a bottle or two that do not have any apparent connection or link. Instead of holding on to those bottles until the “right” combination comes along, I decided to link all these “random” bottles together, making their own category (and, being the math geek that I am, “random sample” has a bit of a double entendre).
2022 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy: Retail $28. Wonderfully Responsible Bottle (394g; 13.9oz). DIAM10 Closure. 100% Sangiovese. This is, in fact, not just 100% Sangiovese, but 100% Prugnolo Gentile, a “distinguished” clone of Sangiovese that is found in and around Montepulciano. A “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” must have at least 70% Prugnolo Gentile, but this beauty is cento per cento of the coveted clone. There are a few wines that, upon trying a new iteration, I profess that I “need to drink more [of this]”. Riesling, Pinots Gris and Blanc, Arneis, the list is healthy. Add Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Reasonably priced, but almost always over-delivers, this is another perfect example. Dark (but short of inky) in the glass, with lovely dark berry fruit: blackberry, cassis, even blueberry, and a touch of black cherry. Throw in some spice, a dash of earth, and we have an utterly inviting start. The palate is even better, with all that rich fruit and spice, a touch of anise is introduced, along with some silky (but present, for sure) tannins, and a lip-smacking acidity that not only whets the appetite, but leaves the taster begging for more (at least I did). Yeah, this is pretty quaffable but also complex stuff, one that I will definitely seek. Outstanding. 93 Points.
2024 Freemark Abbey Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, CA: Retail $35. Responsible Bottle (497g; 17.5oz). Under screw cap. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. There used to be a whole lot more Sauvignon Blanc in Napa, but once Cabernet stared selling for 5, 10, $20k a ton, a whole lot of that Sauvignon Blanc got grafted over to Cab. But Freemark Abbey, one of the historic producers in the Valley, continues to produce a fantastic SB. Light straw in the glass with a decided green hue and aromas of fresh-cut grass, loads of citrus, and hints of tree fruit abound. The palate is both instantly tart and fruity with a salinity that entices and a minerality that intrigues. Yowza. I don’t drink a ton of SB outside of Sancerre, but every chance I get to try a quality one from Napa, I leap at the chance as they are invariably stellar. Like this one. Outstanding. 93 Points.
2024 Lionel Gosseaume Passerelles, Touraine Oisly, Loire Valley, France: Retail $30. Retail $28. Very Heavy Bottle (761g; 26.8oz). Under DIAM3. This is a (relatively?) new venture from the Jackson Family, which now has wines from four appellations in the Loire region. Even though I have led dozens (?) of bike trips through the Loire Valley, I am not sure I recognize the appellation, which is a 100% white, all Sauvignon region. [OK, after a bit of research, this is a relatively new (2011) appellation, “dedicated to high quality Sauvignon Blanc”, and it’s located south of Blois and near the famous castles of Chambord and Cheverny. So I have been pretty darn close to it.] A brilliant straw with a green tinge, and a distinct cat pee agenda, which is rare for French Sauvignon. Freshly cut grass, lime rind, and a chalky, mineral aspect. Lovely. The palate is incredibly rich and more round than linear, with that mineral note, and plenty of citrus (some grapefruit in there, too). While the perceived sweetness is likely due to the ripe flavors, it really works here. It is a surprisingly bold Touraine and a departure from the “norm” that I experienced on all of those bike tours, but it is delightful. Excellent. 91 Points.
2024 Troon Vineyard Mourvèdre Amphora, Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $45. Responsible Bottle (506g; 17.8oz). 100% Mourvèdre. This is the second bottle of this wine that the kind folks at Troon sent me, and this is equally as fantastic as the first. Each time I receive some wine from Troon, I am excited. Not only are the wines incredibly well-made and tasty, but I would venture to state that no other winery is better for the planet and more committed to sustainability. Period. On the other hand, I am no fan of Mourvèdre; I find it overly meaty and funky (even though I claim to love the funk). But. This is a really good Mourvèdre. Medium to dark in color with that characteristic meaty-funkiness on the nose, I am hesitant to dive in, but once I do? Yeah, this is close to gangbusters. Plenty of luscious red and blue fruit on the palate, along with that, yes, meaty-funkiness, but also a zingy, unifying, captivating acidity, that is a show-stopper. Again. I love Troon for so many reasons, but there is no denying that their wines are world-class. Outstanding. 94 Points.
2024 Troon Vineyard Mourvèdre, Applegate Valley, OR: Retail $45. Responsible Bottle (505g; 17.8oz). Under DIAM Origine 10 stopper. 100% Mourvèdre. Biodynamic. I was going to list all of the certifications for this wine, but the list is long, and I try really hard to keep my tasting notes under 200 words (really, I do). While I have reviewed the Amphora version of Mourvèdre from Troon numerous times, this is my first foray into the “standard” version (calling any of Troon’s wines “standard” seems wrong, but moving along). I have stated numerous times, without the slightest hesitation, that I am no fan of Mourvèdre. I find the variety overly meaty and a bit funky. Both of those attributes apply to this Troon, but I have to say, at the risk of hyperbole, that Troon wines just seem happy, and it is really difficult to dislike a happy wine. For me, happy wines exude confidence and joy, giddy that the farm where they are made is healthy, vibrant, thriving, and, well, also happy. Anyone who has ever set foot on the Troon property in the last, say 5-8 years, knows exactly what I mean. The lengths to which Troon goes to establish and maintain a healthy and happy ecosystem on the farm are nothing short of extraordinary. And it certainly shows in the wine. Juicy, fruity, tart, and layered, but also meaty and a tad funky, this “standard” Mourvèdre comes really close to getting me “hooked” on the variety as a whole. This wine is not only delicious, but it is also versatile; pair it with pizza, pasta, roast pork, or just sip it while binging on your latest guilty pleasure. By the third (second?) sip, that meaty funkiness will not only become more palatable, but you will also find it enticing. I really don’t like Mourvèdre, but once again, I love this Troon. Outstanding. 93 Points.
the drunken cyclist 